Christmas is
a traditional time to do a bit of exploring in the back country
where a normal weekend might leave you short. With this in mind I
figured it would be an ideal time to shoot away and try something I
had read about in a couple of places but never actually seen for
myself -the Haast-Paringa cattle track. The Kennett brothers guide
book described it as a bit of a mission. However, reports lately had
suggested that DoC had been in there and cleared the track, thus
giving someone dense enough to try a chance of actually riding. I
dropped a note on the OTMC discussion list looking for more
information. Paul van Kampen sent me a copy of an article written in
2000 by someone who described himself as a novice which said that
60% of the track was rideable. Well that was all the encouragement I
needed! I enrolled another couple of intrepid explorers (sic
suckers) and we set off soon after Boxing Day with light packs and
shiny mountain bikes to do battle with the West Coast sandflies.
It wasn't the
greatest of starts when the rain began as we unloaded the car, but
undeterred we set off into the bush. The walker we met coming out
into the car park looked a bit dubious about our intentions, but
wished us luck anyhow. In hindsight he may have been right. The
"easy" part of the ride into Blowfly Hut was about 50% rideable
(maybe), but fun for all that. After that it was a steady but
gradual climb to Maori Saddle Hut. This consisted largely of a track
similar to Government Track but covered in various sized rocks. I
enjoyed the technical challenge of riding the bike but most, I
think, would feel that this was a long way to push or carry a bike.
Maori Saddle
Hut, like all the huts on this track, was of an exceptional standard
and would make a lovely place to stay the night after 6 or so hours
walking. We had lunch here and then continued on our way to
Coppermine hut. This section of the track was the least looked after
and had several large washouts. These would have been a nuisance on
foot but when laden with bikes they were downright unpleasant!
Likewise the
deadfalls were very difficult to thread bikes through, especially
when wearing hard plastic-soled shoes custom made for bike riding.
They don't give you much purchase on rain slick wood! After about
five hours on this section of the track we reached a point where the
track improved somewhat and someone had even managed to bring a
four-wheeled motorbike up to this point. WELL! If he can ride so can
I! I had a great ride the rest of the way (another 45 minutes or so)
to Coppermine Hut. This is set on the river flats about 40 minutes
from the road end. The hunters who were already in residence had the
hut all nice and toasty, which was welcome after a day of
alternating sun and thunder storms. Not to mention 12 hours of bike
pushing.
Shelley was
more than happy to stop since her teeth were aching badly. She had
slipped earlier in the day, the contact with the top tube of her
bike gashing her chin and bashing her front teeth. Bruce sorted
through our various first aid supplies before eventually taping up
the cut in Shelley’s chin. Soft food was the go for the next couple
of days, methinks.
The last day
out was a pleasant jaunt out on the river flats to the main road,
followed by about 30 km of tarseal back to the car.
Overall I
wouldn't hesitate to recommend this as a weekend or three day walk,
even for fairly inexperienced trampers, but think it’s best to leave
the bikes at home (or perhaps in the bush at the track end to ride
back to the car).
The Moir’s
walking times are about the same as the track markers put in by DoC
and, if our progress was anything to go by, they are pretty much
bang on.
Thanks to
Bruce, Robb and Michelle (Shelley) Coleman for saying 'yes' to yet
an-other of Rob's Tiki tours. Rob Porteous.