Several months ago, a friend asked me to help her celebrate her 40th birthday by walking the Heaphy Track, accompanied by special friends, most of whom had never tramped before. But the Heaphy is not a good first track, it logistically presents problems of access and return, and would mean leaving families for at least five days. But would she consider the Routeburn, I asked?
We planned and connived and set about training. Then negotiated with partners and friends to have childcare for the 10 children involved, persuaded others to do pick up at the Divide, and finally we were ready to go! But was I ready for this, two children and five years since I had done any really decent tramping?
Antony had arranged for us to rent a Rhodes van under the auspices of the Club, and allowed us to use the trailer for this private trip. We left at 9 am and got to the Routeburn Shelter just before 3 pm, with brief stops en route for "last decent coffee", "last flush toilet and DoC sign?in en route. Concerned about reaching Falls Hut before dark, we all got moving fairly promptly, heading off into the mist and haze.
The path to the flats area is pretty straightforward and apart from a new bridge since my last visit, not changed much. We set ourselves in low gear and plodded/grunted/strode/ putted up to Falls Hut. Arriving at dark, we found the hut warm and welcoming, with the "new" set up much cosier in the living area but dark and dingey in the sleeping side. Conversations with the other inhabitants and the warden (staying on after the end of the season) reminded me of the hidden pleasures of tramping ? people you meet, conversations you have, re?living of tramping trips when recommending areas to others, not to mention enjoyment through others of our unique NZ outdoors.
Saturday broke misty, with a heavy rain forecast and high winds from the south. One of the party was feeling rather the worse for wear, and most apprehensive about the long day and poor forecast. Lightening her pack and making mental plans in case we had to turn back, I did a final sweep of the hut before heading out into the weather to join everyone at the Harris Saddle Shelter.
The wind was gusty along the waterfall but virtually non existent in the top basin, and the rain was gentle on my cheek ? not really raindrops but "soft" weather, as they say in Ireland. I could see the other party members at various stages along the track, stopping to admire the celmisia and gentians, or perhaps looking at a stream or view. The peaks vanished and reappeared from the clouds, while the raucous call of keas came down to us through the mist. My pack felt good ? heavy, but not unbearable, and I had the right layers of clothing under my parka. My new headband (7 identical polarfleece bands, made by one of our party, embroidered with the letters of the birthday girl's name was magic ? why had I never before found this solution to the fact that I hate wearing a hat, but need something on my head?)
We were blown into the shelter by the winds that howled over the saddle,
not a day for Conical Hill (fancy new track up there since my last visit) but everyone was keen to proceed. After a brew and lunch, everyone was getting cold and keen to move on. Happily placed as "tail?end?Charlie", I stayed a bit longer with Ramona before we headed along the Hollyford face. The flowers, the bush, the views, the tussock, the waterfalls ? how on earth did the two runners manage to enjoy these as they dashed past? Did they stop at the overlooking of McKenzie Hut to admire what lay below, or even remember the first time they had been that way? (I have photos taken in 1978 from there, my first ever tramp in NZ, and I was wearing denim shorts and carrying a mountain mule pack with far too much in it!)
McKenzie was getting crowded, with 26 people representing 10 nationalities that night, although we did wonder how many were paying hut fees. Conversation flowed, and as much entertainment was to be gained from watching each other (and discussing menus) as anything else! And nobody snored, (well, not for long!)
(part
II)
Sunday was raining again
- more steadily now - and we set off through the dripping "Hobbit inspiring" bush, hoping for some views, following what seemed to be little streams rather than a track. Earland Falls thundered as we approached, and looking upwards we saw the power of water falling over the edge, and fresh snow on the tussock above. The temperature dropped and some of the party began to feel the cold. Crossing the falls at the usual spot was a mistake ? quite possible, but the sheer force of the cold water stinging cheeks and blowing up parkas made everyone fairly cold on the last leg down to Howden.
Another brew (both cookers going in a feeble attempt to provide a bit of warmth!) and lunch. No one wanted to change out of wet clothes, although we had an hour to wait before heading out to meet up with transport at the Divide. Thoughts of Key Summit and beautiful views were put on hold until the next visit, and our tramping priest celebrated Mass (in bush shirt and priestly regalia!) at the table while we admired God's work through the mist and rain outside.
The van and warm dry clothes (and another bladder of wine!) awaited us, and we were soon on our way. We reached Te Anau at about 6 pm, hungry for some greasies, only to be greeted by closed signs all round town. Dejected, we started moving away from the lakeside café, only to see the proprietor running to the door, reversing the sign, and beckoning us in! He explained that he had recognised the logo on the trailer as his son had been an OTMC member. Relieved that he had not opened his doors just because of the legendary ability of trampers to eat up big, we flocked in, ate up big, and shared our wine with Greg Wood's father, before he offered us free range of all the day's left over sandwiches (which made packed lunch for 10 children and 6 adults very much easier on Monday!)
We sang from Te Anau to Balclutha (without repeating a single song!) The novice trampers were delighted that they had not only survived but enjoyed it, and I felt invigorated by being out there again. The weather could have been worse ? but not much! ? but it had failed to dampen the spirits of the group, individually or collectively. As someone said, all the more reason to do the track again when we can see it! Our ages spanned 40 to 50 + ? we have plenty of years to go!
Teresa Wasilewska for Ramona Clark, Tony, Rosemary. Nicholas, Deborah (birthday girl) and Mary.
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