Tramping through
a snow covered landscape lit by moonlight and skating on a frozen
tarn at 900m at 1.30 am - now that's what I call tramping!
Earlier in the week
several intrepid souls decided it would be fun to walk into Howden
Hut from the Divide on the Friday night rather than staying at the
motor camp in Te Anau. Many back in Dunedin said we were mad as it
was the middle of winter with snow on the ground, but little did they
(or we) know how much fun it would be! By the time we reached Gore
the ranks had swollen to seven. Spirits were high as it was a perfectly
clear, still night with a full moon. Beginning at The Divide just
after midnight, already in the snow, we quickly reached the Key Summit
turn-off. Most of us were all sweating profusely through putting far
too many clothes on and there being no wind. With packs (and some
clothes) left behind we walked up to Key Summit completely without
the use of torches as the moonlight was so bright. The view from Key
Summit was surreal - the Darren, Earl, and Humboldt Mountains all
covered with snow to below the bushline and glistening in the moonlight.
Photos taken, Brad decided the ice on the frozen tarn was strong enough
for skating and the next 20 minutes were spent sliding from one side
to the other. Paul had the record for the number of bum-slides, while
Brad did some amazing back-spins with a little assistance. Howden
Hut was reached just before 2 am and we all dived into our bags.
Mackenzie Hut came
into view just before lunch on Saturday after a relaxed 9 am start
and a pleasant walk in perfect conditions. The areas around the hut
were covered in snow and the lake was almost totally covered in ice.
Not thick enough for skating this time. The mission for after lunch
was to go up the zigzag onto the Hollyford Face towards the Harris
Saddle, then up the ridge as far as was safe towards Ocean Peak. The
last section of the zigzag where it has substantial bluffs immediately
below the track edge was interesting as the track (what track?!) was
buried under half a metre of snow. On reaching the ridge crest, fantastic
views down the Hollyford all the way to the Tasman Sea made for great
photos. Most ventured a little further then turned back, but Brad
and I continued up the ridge to approx. 1600m where we could just
see over Fraser Col beside Emily Peak. Getting down was made much
quicker by descending a steep snow gut, then crashing (stumbling and
falling) through snow covered scrub to the top of Lake Mackenzie.
After dinner, quiz master Wolfgang (complete with beautiful assistant)
put on a brilliant quiz night on general knowledge and, of course,
a smattering tramping.
Everybody walked
out to the Divide by 2pm on Sunday and both vans went through the
Milford Tunnel to the Chasm for a look. The power of water is amazing
as evident from the huge logs some 10 m above the then current water
level. Stopping for photos of huge icicles in the tunnel was a laugh.
1 hope they turn out for those that took them. A fantastic weekend
of winter tramping in ideal conditions was had by all.
Jeff Brown, for
Chris Wells, Brad Wilson, Paul van Kampen, Jenny Lowe, Eric Bradford
and Geoff Brookes.
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