Routeburn - Mackenzie Hut

Area: Routeburn Track - Divide Side

Map: NZMS 260 - E40 (Earnslaw)
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Northern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin 589, August 1999
Date: 31 July - 1 August, 1999
Notes: Suitable all year round, although parts of the Routeburn is prone to avalanche danger is spring.

 

Routeburn - Mackenzie Hut by Jeff Brown

Tramping through a snow covered landscape lit by moonlight and skating on a frozen tarn at 900m at 1.30 am - now that's what I call tramping!

Earlier in the week several intrepid souls decided it would be fun to walk into Howden Hut from the Divide on the Friday night rather than staying at the motor camp in Te Anau. Many back in Dunedin said we were mad as it was the middle of winter with snow on the ground, but little did they (or we) know how much fun it would be! By the time we reached Gore the ranks had swollen to seven. Spirits were high as it was a perfectly clear, still night with a full moon. Beginning at The Divide just after midnight, already in the snow, we quickly reached the Key Summit turn-off. Most of us were all sweating profusely through putting far too many clothes on and there being no wind. With packs (and some clothes) left behind we walked up to Key Summit completely without the use of torches as the moonlight was so bright. The view from Key Summit was surreal - the Darren, Earl, and Humboldt Mountains all covered with snow to below the bushline and glistening in the moonlight. Photos taken, Brad decided the ice on the frozen tarn was strong enough for skating and the next 20 minutes were spent sliding from one side to the other. Paul had the record for the number of bum-slides, while Brad did some amazing back-spins with a little assistance. Howden Hut was reached just before 2 am and we all dived into our bags.

Mackenzie Hut came into view just before lunch on Saturday after a relaxed 9 am start and a pleasant walk in perfect conditions. The areas around the hut were covered in snow and the lake was almost totally covered in ice. Not thick enough for skating this time. The mission for after lunch was to go up the zigzag onto the Hollyford Face towards the Harris Saddle, then up the ridge as far as was safe towards Ocean Peak. The last section of the zigzag where it has substantial bluffs immediately below the track edge was interesting as the track (what track?!) was buried under half a metre of snow. On reaching the ridge crest, fantastic views down the Hollyford all the way to the Tasman Sea made for great photos. Most ventured a little further then turned back, but Brad and I continued up the ridge to approx. 1600m where we could just see over Fraser Col beside Emily Peak. Getting down was made much quicker by descending a steep snow gut, then crashing (stumbling and falling) through snow covered scrub to the top of Lake Mackenzie. After dinner, quiz master Wolfgang (complete with beautiful assistant) put on a brilliant quiz night on general knowledge and, of course, a smattering tramping.

Everybody walked out to the Divide by 2pm on Sunday and both vans went through the Milford Tunnel to the Chasm for a look. The power of water is amazing as evident from the huge logs some 10 m above the then current water level. Stopping for photos of huge icicles in the tunnel was a laugh. 1 hope they turn out for those that took them. A fantastic weekend of winter tramping in ideal conditions was had by all.

Jeff Brown, for Chris Wells, Brad Wilson, Paul van Kampen, Jenny Lowe, Eric Bradford and Geoff Brookes.

Back to 1999 Trip Report Archive - Back to OTMC Bulletin Archive

 

This site copyright 1999/2005 Antony Pettinger. The views expressed here do not necessarily represent the views of the OTMC Committee or other OTMC Members.