Routeburn Climbing Weekend 1997

Area: Routeburn Track (Lake Harris vicinity)

Map: NZMS 260 - E40 (Earnslaw)
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Northern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin 570, October 1997
Date: 29/31 August, 1997
Notes: Climbing Trip past Lake Harris

 

Routeburn Climbing Weekend by Stuart Hoskin

Friday, 6pm at the clubrooms, time for another weekend away. The Routeburn is our weekend destination, and hopefully the peak of Mt. Xenicus it's aim.

A six hour drive brings us to the start of the Routeburn Track, stopping only for food in Alexandra. Bed tonight is at Routeburn Falls hut, another three hours away, as we tramp along through dense forest. It is a mild night and it isn't long before warm clothes have been stripped off, and torch batteries start to die. The path steepens for the last hour, a hot cuppa is reward for reaching the hut, and bed at 3.40am.

Alarms rudely awake us at 5.30am and by 7.00am in first light we head up above the waterfalls. We cross the narrow river almost immediately and stand at the base of Mount Xenicus. The summit at 1,910m stands 800m above us and is hidden in low cloud, as it would all day. Snow and strong winds further hampered our small and inexperienced group.

The slopes weren't too tough at the base but steepened after a couple of hundred metres, the soft snow slowing us down. A couple of steeper sections required a bit of scrambling and caution, before we arrived on a slightly more level plateau about halfway up. The whole of the upper face stood before us. Tall cliffs directly below and to the left of the summit, so we headed right, towards a ridge that led up to the summit. In poor light and through snow it was difficult to clearly define slopes, and weren't as easy as they first appeared.

Beyond a plateau, we climbed up a steep section to reach the ridge. The snow was very soft, and often wouldn't take my weight as I led up this slope. This section was very exhausting and frustrating as progress slowed. The ridge line was six feet wide and not to steep but then came to a knife-edge ridge, the top of which could be cupped by the hand. Either side fell nearly vertically for 300 metres or more. Rob led the way across, the snow soft and ready to avalanche at any time. Certainly the scariest section of mountain I have ever climbed. A few voices, mine included, raised questions about continuing, especially as above the slopes increased and dangers to inexperienced eyes appeared worse. As a group we decided not to continue any further.

Lunch was taken here with Mt. Xenicus still in cloud, but lower cloud melted revealing good views over Lake Harris, Harris Saddle and Conical Hill. After a cautious descent on steeper slopes, we were able to glissade down some sections and enjoy a couple of snowball fights, with relief that the worst was behind us. We didn't conquer but we survived, so the decision to abort was the right one.

The descent brought us down to Lake Harris at the head of the Routeburn Valley, The lake was frozen, and covered in six inches of slushy snow. We walked around to the outlet, where we followed the tiny stream, taking us back to the hut, arriving at 2.30pm. On this section back, the cloud lifted just long enough to see the summit, our highest point and lunch stop, and our route up.

The next day brought another early start, again at 5.30am as we aimed to cross over Sugarloaf Pass to the Rockburn Hut, and then via Lake Sylvan to the Routeburn road. We headed back down the Routeburn valley to the flats for a last look at Mt. Xenicus, now bathed in sunshine with clear blue skies above.

We dumped our excess gear in the trailer, then headed off towards Sugarloaf Pass, except for Chris and Vanessa who walked down to Lake Sylvan and around to the Rockburn Hut to meet us for lunch. The narrow and often unmarked track begins a couple of minutes back up the Routeburn Track. It's steep and through dense vegetation (one bend we named Green Valley after some nose clearing). It was no surprise we lost the track. The track crosses the stream at some point, but we didn't, so we bush-bashed up, scrambling over fallen trees and thick vegetation. Climbing up, we hoped to re-discover the track, 4½ hours later we found it again!

Snow lay to just below the tree-line, and just before midday we reached Sugarloaf Pass. The scenery is incredible, looking back across the Routeburn and up the whole length of the Dart Valley, dominated by Earnslaw, a huge long wall of mountain, forested below and white above.

Still no sign of the track back down, so we bush-bashed down, with the slopes much steeper on the Rockburn side. Though not lost, we were heading around the contours of the slope, so every step took us further away from the track.

At least slopes soon eased, as did vegetation and we could descend easier. To our good fortune, we bumped into a hunter who points us in the right direction. We had to round a small lake and boggy ground. One harmless looking trickle entering the lake fooled Rob, who promptly disappeared up to his chest. Round the lake, over a tiny rise and eventually we stood on the track, much to everyone's relief. Rockburn Hut is reached 20 minutes later on the banks of the Dart River. Chris and Vanessa have long gone, leaving a note to say they are off to meet up with Jay and his group at 4.00pm, the meet up time.

After a quick lunch it's a march pace along a muddy meandering path, past Lake Sylvan and across the bridge over the Routeburn, ignoring bridge closed signs, arriving at the van just before 5.00pm. A weekend long to be remembered, and one that will remain with me, even when I'm back home in London next year.

Party - Stuart, Nigel, Rob, Tony, Brad, Chris and Vanessa.

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