Ball Pass Crossover (March 4/5, 2005)

Area: Mt. Cook National Park

Map: NZMS Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Area
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc:
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin, 654, August 2005
Date: March 4/5, 2005
Notes: This is a serious alpine crossing that should only be undertaken by experienced parties in good conditions.

 

Ball Pass Crossover - by Antony P

 

A group of us decided to cross Ball Pass as part of the club trip, leaving Dunedin early on the Friday with the aim of camping that night in the Caroline Hut vicinity and crossing over to the Hooker on the Saturday.  So, come 9am on Friday, a party of eight departed Dunedin for Mt. Cook.  Clear skies all the way bode well weather-wise, and early afternoon saw us signing in and checking conditions at DoC in Mt. Cook Village.  The forecast was for very strong winds around 1000m, not quite so windy at 2000m (Ball Pass is 2121m) with a deterioration in the weather during Saturday.  To us that was good enough, hopefully we would have crossed Ball Pass before the front came through.

As we had 4WD vehicles we managed to drive to the very end of the Ball Road, just past Husky Flat and about 1000m directly below Caroline Hut.  Clear skies afforded great views of the surrounding mountains and Tasman Glacier as we headed off for Ball Shelter.  Here we met two people who had just crossed Ball Pass from the Hooker and they were very enthusiastic about the crossing.  By this stage it was about 4.30pm, so we had about three and a half hours of useable light remaining – better get going!

From Ball Shelter the route heads further up the Tasman to a point where you head west and climb up to Ball Ridge, rather than climbing the ridge from the corner near Ball Glacier.  Once on the ridge the route is very well defined and is really just a scramble between rocks.  Of course, you are constantly rewarded by the view of the surrounding mountains, including the Caroline Face and Mt. Cook high above the Ball Glacier.

There are not too many spots on the ridge where you can camp, funnily enough, but there is a great spot near point 1824m that allowed us to pitch our two tent flies.  To some it may seem odd to be spending the night in a tent fly above 1800m, but this evening was perfect.  In fact, bivvying out was even better.  We arrived at the campsite at dusk, and were very quickly treated to a spectacular sunset over Lake Pukaki.  We had had a decent lunch in Twizel, and had planned a light dinner at this campsite, requiring no cooking.  We found that this worked very well for us and saved time, weight and effort.  We planned to be away at first light if we could due to the forecast, so an early night was had.

Saturday morning dawned clear in the east, but there was significant cloud growth in the west.  We could see Ball Pass clearly in the distance, but Mt. Cook was now shrouded in cloud, not to be seen again during the weekend.  We headed away in a weak sun towards Caroline Hut – from point 1824m this is a rock scramble, with the size of the rocks increasing as we got closer to the hut.  As Caroline Hut is about the same height as our campsite this section was more or less level.

After a quick chat with two guides at Caroline Hut we headed onwards again towards the pass.  The weather was definitely changing for the worse but we judged we would have enough time to cross the pass as long as we didn’t hang around too long.  The route from Caroline Hut takes a decidedly steeper turn as the buttress directly behind the hut is climbed.  Looking back down gave some neat views of the hut with the grey Tasman Glacier a kilometre below.  After climbing the buttress and a short sidle, the first of the snow was reached.  Before too long we were at the point where you drop down onto the top of the Ball Glacier  -  time to put on the crampons for the traverse across the top of the glacier and onto the pass.  The snow/ice was certainly very firm, and although not steep it was not somewhere you would want to slip – the glacier seemed to go for miles.  It was here it started to rain.  The route got a wee bit steeper as we approached the pass, but very soon we were on the gravel scree and on Ball Pass.  Due to the weather the celebrations and antics we had planned for the pass did not happen so after a couple of photos it was downwards towards the Hooker.

The first part of the descent was very steep, possibly the steepest of the trip, but was clear of snow.  Soon we were back on the snow, which again was hard but not particularly steep.  After skirting around the end of a fairly significant crevasse we were off the snow.  Rain was falling steadily as we took off the crampons and headed to the ridge where we would drop from to gain access to the Playing Field.  We were aware of the need to maintain as much height as possible on this section, but we still ended up climbing - in fact one section here was the most hair-raising of the trip.  In hindsight, with better conditions an easier route wouldn’t be hard to find.

Over the ridge and down to the Playing Field was straight-forward enough, but a head for heights is required in places, as well as sure footing.  A quick bite at the Playing Field sufficed for lunch before we headed down the steep gut that leads to the Hooker.  We went down in teams of two to reduce the risk of dislodged rocks hitting someone below.  After a couple of tumbles in the gut we were safely on the Hooker valley floor.

We had planned to camp on the alluvial fan at the foot of the gut, with Peter and Sue Stevenson coming in to join us.  The weather deterred us pretty smartly, especially as we only had the two flies.  A quick wander down the Hooker saw us totally drenched in the increasing rain and at around 5pm we were at the shelter in the camping ground, where Pete and Sue had the magical billy on.  After changing and retrieving the vehicles we decided that the weekend had been very successful, nothing more would be achieved so we should go home, which we did, arriving back in Dunedin around midnight.

The Ball Pass crossover is a great trip and highly recommended.  It is also a very

serious crossing and should never be undertaken lightly.  The club was very careful in the lead up to this trip about what sort of ability people had to have to participate in the crossing.  It requires a good sense of route-finding, as it is an unmarked route, and a head for heights as well as experience in traveling steep, rough terrain is required.  Alpine and snowcraft skills are essential at any time of year.  As Chief Guide I would do nothing differently in the lead-up to a future trip to Ball Pass.

The quote of the weekend undoubtedly goes to George, who was quite pleased to back in Dunedin in time to attend church on Sunday as ‘he had just been to hell and back’.  I’m not quite sure what he meant, as this was a particularly satisfying trip!

Something that affected every one of us was the triple fatality on Bass Pass 3 days later.  It was very hard for us to comprehend what had happened in an area that we considered no more or no less dangerous that anywhere else on the crossover.  It certainly hit home quite hard the risk involved in this crossing.

Thanks team for a great trip.  A special thanks to Pete and Sue for their support. 

Antony P for Debbie Pettinger, Ann and Chris Burton, George Kemmett (Ann’s Dad), Dave Chambers, Barry Atkinson and Ralph Harvey.

 

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This site copyright 1999/2005 Antony Pettinger. The views expressed here do not necessarily represent the views of the OTMC Committee or other OTMC Members.