Greenstone - Bushcraft Weekend 1997

Area: Scott Creek - Caples Valley (thru trip)

Map: NZMS 260 - E41 (Queenstown), E40 (Earnslaw)
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Northern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin 564, April 1997
Date: 1/2 March, 1997
Notes: The descent into Kay Creek from Scott Creek is quite bluffed and the route needs to picked carefully. An alternative route could include travelling through Death Valley.

 

Greenstone - Bushcraft Weekend 1997 by Fiona Mains

Scott Creek - Kay Creek - Caples River

Since arriving in New Zealand after my travels, I've noticed two main character traits about New Zealanders. Firstly, they love the outdoors. Secondly, they have tendency to downplay the weather, cyclones, bungy jump accidents and sharp bends on unsealed roads which have a speed sign which states slow down to 95 km/h. The Bushcraft Greenstone weekend, with the OTMC only confirmed the aforementioned to me. Our party consisted of our weekend organiser, Nigel and group leader Antony with bushcraft virgins; Angelo, Serena, Anna and Fiona.

Late Friday evening we arrived in the dark to Kinloch Road end via the skating dexterity of Antony's rally traverse drive round the newly coated and unsealed road from Queenstown. This is where I witnessed first hand that the Kiwi male not only enjoys the cold by wearing shorts when it's minus Celsius but also enjoys sleeping 'al fresco' with nothing covering them but a fly sheet. A dismayed Scot whined that she only had a one season sleeping bag. After a tent re-shuffle everyone was nested for the night.

The following morning, dawn arrived in glorious colours which Angelo dutifully rose to snap on film. It also transpired that we were not the only ones who wanted to get awy from it all, as the Varsity Club, who we had seen signs of munching fish and chips in Alexandra, had also chosen the same camping spot. Stumbling over 40 or so scarfies in deep slumber, sprawled around in their fly sheets and bivy sacks made an interesting obstacle course to reach the W.C. Everyone had risen and began to cook breakfast of 40 differing varieties of how to eat museli with yoghurt, cold milk, hot milk, with crunchy bits, with fruit or just on it's own. Non museli lovers beware!

After a short drive the uninitiated were dropped off at the beginning of Scott Creek. Nigel led with Antony herding the sacrificial lambs in the rear. It was a steep but a well tramped trail through the undergrowth with an occasional white striped metal post to show that man had been there before. The weather was glorious and the ascent steady. We each took turns in leading the trail but the trail decided to test us and petered out. This then left the challenge of spot the trail. This was the first stage of the bush bash, an unforgettable one for those who were not wearing gaiters.

I noticed that the best way to bush bash was to 'swim above the undergrowth' by moving your arms as in doing the breast stroke and taking large John Cleese like steps. However, take note, this technique is not to be repeated on any of the very public Great Walks or the DoC warden will probably have you committed. Ocassionally one of us would be taken victim by the 'ha gotcha!' bush hole monster. It can be quite disconcerting when following someone breaking the trail, to find out whether or not they have orange vibram sole sticker on the soles of their boots.

I digress, and so did we in Scott Creek. The well defined trail, which Antony remembered whizzing down in time for tea when he was just a slip-of-a-lad did not show itself to us. We finally did find the little red tag to signify the track. Unfortunately, it was still attached to the tree which lay at the bottom of a massive land/tree slide. We descended down and then climbed back up and over many tree trunks to reach the trail again, this was to be repeated several times on the trail.

The scenery became very different and unique as we neared the private hut at the top of Scott Creek. Rocks were all hues of green, blue, purple and yellow. The trees became ghostly with the silver lichen wrapped around the trunks. This is where the ’ha gotcha!’ rock monster decided to rear up and take a victim who displayed both of her vibram orange sticker soles to the group. She walked away bashed and wary and sported the biggest bruise for the trip.

As we ascended more, the landscape became open and the weather closed in as we entered the Scott Basin. The surroundings became more exposed with the rocky outcrops creating an alpine area with Mt. Aspiring mountains in the far distance. The views were awe-inspiring not unlike the European Alps, rugged mountains in the islands of Scotland, or any other high place you happen upon. It’s times like these that you find yourself contentment and a calm aloofness of not thinking about the world below.

As we reached the pass or belaugh (prn. ‘belack’) at the top of Kay Creek, the weather began to break and the group was becoming tired after the trail-breaking. We picked our way down a scree slope then boulder hopped down to the DoC grade 3 hut at the bottom of Death Valley. Exhausted, we arrived at the hut which looked more like a bush-man or hermit’s hideaway constructed with tree trunks and corrugated tin. It became a haven as the rain began to belt down on the roof.

Inside the hut crudely made hessian sack bunks (which looked like stretchers) and an open fire with wood. This is when you find out whether you are in a good food group. One member stunned the group as he chopped and then dropped a stir-fry vegetable meal with envious then sympathetic glances from the other food group who were still spitting out their de-hydrated chicken pieces out of their rice dish. It is strange how food that you never think of becomes special and wonderful at times like those, such as chicken super noodles.

Relaxed and in our sleeping bags, we watched the flame dance on the fire and the sound effects of the storm brewing outside. Things became more interesting as the evening progressed. The wind whipped up and blew the smoke back into the hut and caused some exhilaration when it blew in up against the roof. I had a dream about trampers being found smoked and roofless at the bottom of Death Valley, how did it get its name I wondered.

Morning arrived and we had all survived the night, including our camper. The rain was drizzling down outside. We packed up and made haste down Kay Creek as we had a long walk ahead of us.

As we descended down the creek the weather opened up as we walked out the shadows of Death Valley. Looking back I could see this was aptly named. The creek monster this time decide to take a victim. He was the only remaining one of the party with dry feet. He survived and drip-dried his way down the rest of the creek with a water logged camera as a reminder.

We reached the Upper Caples hut in good time. This is we rested and dried off for a few minutes. Two members of the party volunteered to run ahead and reach the mini-bus in time. The rest took a languid stroll out of the track, stopping at the Mid Caples hut for lunch. The weather was uncharacteristically good with clear blue skies and chocolate box cover views of surrounding mountains. Eventually and only too quickly we arrived at the car-park where the minibus was parked.

All too soon we were back in Dunedin via chips in Cromwell. I arrived home weary but happy that the bush had bashed some of the nonsense out of me for the time being. I eagerly looked at the OTMC trip card for a future trip which was George Sound, it sounded good to me.

Fiona Mains Bushcraft Virgin

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