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As we all know, the pleasures of tramping extend beyond the challenges,
the adventures and the sheer enjoyment of nature‘s beauty to the
intriguing mix of people and personalities, attitudes and ages. Our
Arthurs Pass Easter group was unusual in that it included three
teenagers, the oldest of whom, Andrew (18) emphatically stated: "If
you’ve reached 30 you’re definitely old."
What were Bruce and I, both the 'wrong' side of 40 (Bruce not by much), to
make of that? The tone was set for a break full of banter and friendly
abuse. The lasting memories will not just be of stunning landscapes but
also of Bruce’s largely futile attempts to give as good as he got.
The climb up the steep track behind Arthurs Pass township to the top of
Avalanche Peak is highly recommended, although not on the first morning
in deep fresh snow with 4-day packs including tents. Panoramic views
continued all along the subsequent supposed “half -hour” ridge traverse,
which turned into 1 1/2 hours of plugging and slogging. After slipping
and stuttering down the long, steep and snow-covered scree slope short
of the Crow face of Mt Rolleston, we made near-new and empty Crow Hut
just before dark.
The next day, in deteriorating crud, we arrived by early afternoon at
commodious Carrington Hut in the Waimakariri Valley and decided chilly
weather was not for camping. Carrying day gear only allowed for a
relatively quick trip, with plenty of boulder hopping, the next day to
Barker Hut at the head of the White Valley and back in reasonable
conditions. This 6-bunk shelter (owned by the Canterbury Mountaineering
Club) sits atop a bluff in an amphitheatre of peaks, glaciers and
snowfields. Little wonder it is up there among the most spectacular hut
settings anywhere. A night with the wire guy ropes howling and the hut
shuddering in high winds must be thrilling. The couple who stayed the
previous night said they had seriously thought of belaying each other
across the 15m from hut door to toilet. Our visit was much calmer,
although breezy and cold.
The final four-hour walk out from Carrington was most pleasant, despite
several chilly river crossings. Rugged Arthurs Pass National Park
successfully worked its charms on all five of us - the young and the
old. And despite what Andrew says, there’s still hope for us more mature
trampers. When we finally made it to the top of Avalanche Peak, already
there from one of the other groups was grey-bearded, 60-something Bill.
He had obviously been waiting some time.
Philip Somerville for Joseph and Andrew Donnelly, Bruce Bernasconi and
James Somerville.
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