Anzac Weekend 1997 - Rockburn Valley

Area: Rockburn Valley (via Sugarloaf Pass)

Map: NZMS 260 - E 40 (Earnslaw)
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Northern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin 566, June 1997
Date: 24 - 27 April, 1997
Notes: Suitable all year round, although Sugarloaf can become impassable in heavy rain/snow.

 

Anzac Weekend 1997 - Rockburn Valley by Fiona Mains

We departed from the OTMC building sharp on time picking up two hitch-hiking members en-route. We journeyed in silence until we had our first fix of fish and chips at Alexandra. There, we bumped into other members of the OTMC mulling around the thoroughfare. Also mulling around and showing off their tolerance of sub zero weather conditions by wearing shorts and flexing their tattoos, were the local youth. We became aware of one particular group, as their vamped up Capri with lowered suspension cruised up behind the mini bus. Their cool cruising machine throbbed with the dud, dud, dud, of their sound system. Our curious stares were acknowledged with a Speights salute and a "good on ye" cry. They obviously thought that we were a weird bunch going off into the mountains on such a cold evening.

Fish and chips proved to be good brain food as our party, now fed, began to chatter and show signs of excitement as our trip leader pulled out an array of weather forecasts. They all varied in their predictions but illustrated that there was a cluster of mean looking southerly isobars ganging together to either blow over the southern ocean or creep in towards the mainland and dump on the higher regions with hail and snow. Apparently, the previous night, a local weather observer was contacted and informed the club of the view from their living room window that the Sugarloaf mountain was just iced with a sprinkling of snow. With this re-assurance, we headed west to the mountains.

We travelled through a quiet Queenstown and then onto the unsealed/sealed road to Glenorchy. Progress has been made over the last two months with the road works. This time there were less noticeable road slides. We arrived at the Routeburn shelter late that evening in the rain. All disembarked to doss down in the shelter with one member, who forgot her Karrimat, settling down in the minibus to catch some condensation for the evening.

The next morning arrived as foretold with the wet southerlies. A disarray of trampers swaggered around the shelter, organising their breakfast, personal hygiene and what socks to wear over the next few days. All were dressed in the tramping trend of stripey thermo trouser underneath shorts. My first impression of this attire was that there was a select following of the superman look of wearing shorts over tights/thermos. I latterly found that this was a Kiwi trampers dressed code. One member of the group took this trend further by introducing a new blue mini skirt look. Who said that you could not look sexy on the slopes! This fashion statement had a more practical basis of being made from a plastic bin liner and not leather and it was to allow the rain to drain off without wetting her undergarments. Fashion parade complete, we headed north up the Routeburn track. The more adventurous party forged onwards to the northern pass to pick the way up their route with ice-axes and crampons.

The other group took a sharp and steep right up an unmarked track leading over the Sugarloaf Pass. Our group was the latter and consisted of Malcolm, Kirsty, Chris and Fiona. The ascent up the Sugarloaf pass was arduous with an exciting moment traversing along a slippery tree trunk over a river in spate. We used the well known tramping technique of bumping along on your bottom. This resulted in a soaking wet and very cold behind for the rest of the ascent. One particularly lanky member of the group merely bounded over the aforementioned obstacle. He then flew up the hill and down again to see what was keeping the others who were fighting for air on the slippery slope. We later found the secret of his excess energy by being reared on Milo and Weetbix. We decided to call him the "Kiwi Kid".

Eventually, we reached the top off Sugarloaf Pass which was covered in ankle deep snow. The views over the other snow covered mountains were impressive when they quickly appeared out of the clouds. This is where we played spot the mountain with our cameras. We hastily moved on and followed the iron rusted poles towards the well defined shelter stone and then steeply down towards the Rockburn track.

We decided to take the right turn down towards the Rockburn hut instead of Theatre Flat. The hut seemed more appealing compared to camping 4 in a 3 man tent in the cold and wet. We met 11 other trampers on the track tramping their way towards Theatre Flat. We were relieved not to add to the overcrowding of this scenic spot. It also satisfied our comfort zones, especially mine after the Scott Creek/Greenstone weekend. The Kiwi kid appeared disappointed, we decided as a group to let him bound on in search of the hut. A few hours later we arrived at the DOC grade 3 Rockburn hut. It was situated not far from the banks of the river Dart.

The hut was well equipped with bunks, benches, wood, a lamp and pots. It was obviously been used by hunters. This is where we burst into domestic activity of chopping wood, fire making and gourmet meal cooking. A comfortable time was had by all with a warm fire, good food, wine, whisky and scary Scottish ghost stories (all true) to pass the evening through. The evening ended in high jinks for one member of the group who had to pole vault onto the top bunk. It was amusing to watch his legs dangle over the side as he attempted to mantle shelve onto the mattress.

We settled down for the night, lulled to sleep with the sound of rain on the tin roof and the hut mouse smacking its lips over the gourmet left overs. Snores filled the air as we contented trampers drifted off to peaceful dreams. All except one, who from the top bunk cried for help and then leaped off the bunk and was found cowering on the floor holding onto a sandal for dear life. Was it a scary ghost story too many or a dream about a 6 foot mouse eating his weetbix? We never did find out from this sleep walking, bunk bungying, Milo addict.

The next day arrived with clear blue skies. It was amazing to sit on the river bank eating breakfast whilst watching the sun slowly creep over the ridge of Mt. Earnslaw. Personal grooming appeared to be the next priority of the morning with washing of hair and cleaning of teeth. The males of the group appeared to be particularly hygiene conscious. One had brought some Lynx "Java" deodorant. The females, less well groomed, shamed by this effort of personal hygiene from the boys, asked to borrow the deodorant as not to feel too grubby and left out.

Smelling sweet or less sweaty, we decided to move on and have an shorter but more adventurous day. Wearing lighter sacks, we decided to follow an animal track through the bush along the river Dart towards Lake unknown. We took the bridge over an impressive gorge and then followed a deer track into the bush. This was full of fauna and bird life with Wood Pigeons cooing and cheeky Waxeyes playing tag with us along the track. We reached to bottom of the hill where Lake Unknown was situated. We looked up at the overhanging cliffs and decided to rename it Lake Impossible.

We cut out of the bush and practise some river crossing by following the river back to the hut. One party member had little experience of doing so and was getting into the swing of it when two Shotover speed boats blasted up the river. One passed by with passive passengers peering curiously at this water nymph. The other jet boat roared to an abrupt halt putting her off her stride and them off their momentum. Confidence building stuff, usually you warn people of fast rivers, not to go above your knees but not playing "chicken" with raging speed boats would be one to remember.

A warm fire greeted us with some new company for the evening. The owner of the Glenorchy Cafe and her son were settling in for the evening. Another pleasant evening progressed with more gourmet meals, wine, whisky and more scary ghost stories. This proved too much for our Milo addict who had another disturbed dream and unplanned bunk bungy. I decided that in future that I would refrain from telling scary Scottish ghost stories. However, I personally think that he should cut down on the Milo.

Our walk out the next day was leisurely and involved a sunbath en route on the banks of Lake Sylvan. A particularly bold bush Robin decided to come out and eat some leftover apricots. We passed by the road end of Kinloch and up to the Routeburn shelter for some more basking in the sunshine. We watched the other group tirelessly troop towards the shelter. It appeared that a good time was had by all.

Our travel back to Dunedin was scenic to say the least. We had a civilised coffee stop in quiet Queenstown (must be the Japanese off season) then onto an uneventful fish and chip stop in Alexandra. Arriving back in Dunedin more refreshed than how I left, I looked at the trip card, Queen’s Birthday, seems worth celebrating.

Fiona Mains

Ghost Story Expert

Back to 1997 Trip Report Archive - Back to OTMC Bulletin Archive

 

This site copyright 1999/2005 Antony Pettinger. The views expressed here do not necessarily represent the views of the OTMC Committee or other OTMC Members.