Three Gents But No Keas, A Toast To The Queen

Area: Ress Valley, Kea Basin

Map: NZMS 260 - E40 (Earnslaw)
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Northern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin 567, July 1997
Date: 30 May 1997 - 2 June 1997
Notes: Suitable all year round to Kea Basin, further up towards Earnslaw may require alpine skills.

 

Three Gents But No Keas, A Toast To The Queen by Richard Pettinger

(Ross' subtitle might be "Earnslaw without commitment")

Friday night of Queens Birthday weekend saw our party not meeting at the clubrooms. And not at 6 o'clock. We were self-contained in Brian's new 4WD. So we were away quite early, with Jonette hitching a ride.

We got to Glenorchy, and the weather looked fine enough -well, it wasn't raining. It had already snowed a bit that day, with snow lowering to bushline (well below the summit of Earnslaw), thus also lowering our ambition. We would leave our crampons behind. More room for the beer.

Because of the nice night, we went on to Muddy Creek and got under the tent fly. BC crawled into the back of his 4WD. On a mattress. "Tramping like this is just fine," he said, "bloody luxury." All-right for him. It rained, you see, and Ross & Richard, in the fly, were directly under unsealed seams. Seam sealer on flies perishes after a few decades in storage...

This trip, as it happens, was Ross' second tramping trip since 1985. He was showing signs of perishing as well from inappropriate storage.

Muddy Creek stopped the 4WD. So, it was packs on, and away. After twenty steps, and crossing Muddy, it turned out to look easily crossable in the 4WD. So, we went back to get it. No worries. We helped to ferry packs up valley till we were stopped by a slippery bank we didn't like the look of.

Brian had said, "Let's make sure this is a gentile trip - conceding to our great age..." And so, it was. Richard even kept his feet dry crossing the Rees. And he was carrying TWO karrimats!

The walk up to Kea Basin Bivy was great. Nice gradient, doesn't seem to have got steeper at all. Great vegetation. Clouds were threatening, and we got the occasional squall, but the weather stayed not too bad.

The bivy hadn't been moved by DoC. Or declared dangerous. Nonetheless Ross proceeded to attack its structural integrity with his cranium. Thinning grey hairs are no protection against low ceilings, eh Ross? Other OTMCers spread out next door, but one of that party chose to be a bit of a recluse, deciding to stay in a tiny tent...!

We sat and ate and watched snow fall, into the evening. Moonlight and fresh snow made a fantastic setting. Discussions that night and the next dwelt on sex, absent spouses, kids, politics and, of course, defaming common acquaintances: "whatever happened to so-and-so??" "How many club marriages are still intact?" After much thought, we decided intactness probability was about thirty to one, a bloody high average for this planet.

The bivy has fairly comfortable bedding, especially for those with two karrimats. But the drips off the roof were a bit of a pest. Later on, icicles on the roof began to grow... at least the drips then stopped.

For both Sunday and Monday the weather was fine. A bit cool. But clear and still. Views were superb. Mt. Aspiring standing proud over the ridge between Mt. Clarke and Rees Saddle. Sunday's trip was up towards the big E, in knee deep snow. The brave other OTMCers broke the trail, which we thought was very nice of them. A chamois (?) was busy breaking its own trail, and came quite close to us. Must have been lonely. Maybe its spouse was overseas.

All summit attempts that day failed. No flags were to be seen on top. Just the banners of viciously blown snow. Strong wind continued all weekend; this veritable jet stream came down to just above the point we got to. A prominent shoulder made a blissful place for lunch in the still conditions. It was extremely quiet. The big question was "Where have all the keas gone?" We expected a whole basin-ful.

Descending to the bivy (or should it be called icebox?) Ross and Richard looked into the upper bivy. Snow had been driven in and it was damp, but the view might just compensate for these exquisite little inconveniences.

Much beer was produced from the depths of packs. Quite a nice touch. But we forgot to give any to our neighbours. Not even by way of thanks after they had broken the trail so well. Sorry, guys.

We went home, again in a gentlemanly fashion. We took Jonette with us back to Dunedin, stopping in Queenstown at a quiet cafe for a snack, coffees and fresh juice. Very nice.

Richard Pettinger, for Brian Craig and Ross Davies (yes, we're still alive!)

Back to 1997 Trip Report Archive - Back to OTMC Bulletin Archive

 

This site copyright 1999/2005 Antony Pettinger. The views expressed here do not necessarily represent the views of the OTMC Committee or other OTMC Members.