Livingstone Range - 24/25 January, 2004

Area: Fiordland / Livingstone Range

Map: NZMS 260 - D41
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Southern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin, March 2004
Date: 24/25 January. 2004
Notes:

 

Livingstone Range by Luke

 

A lot was hinging on this trip - I’m a new comer to the club, you see. The Thursday meeting prior was short n’sweet. Gary, the leader safely assured me, 'you’ll be right mate', so I paid up and told him I’d see him the following day. Not only am I a new comer to OTMC, but also to the South Island, so I hadn’t interpreted a 'bit of a drive toward Te Anau' as meaning an arrival time post midnight!

The shelter at The Divide (beginning of the Routeburn) was soon quickly scattered with bodies. David set the tone for the weekend (literally that is - b flat), breaking into snore before I was even in my sleeping bag - still not sure how he did that! Poor Gaz had to drop off the five other troopers tackling Giffords Crack and so didn’t crawl into his sack until after 1am. I’d just nodded off, when there was a squeal. I open my eyes - a fat possum lands on me full weight and Roy is ‘giving it some’ across the shelter, intent on who knows what once he got his hands on that piece of fur.

A few sandflies joined us for an early brekky, then we were off, first stop being Key Summit. From here the views were incredible, particularly Mt Christina poking through the clearing cloud. We then basically trotted along the range, soaking up the scene from every angle. Lake  Gunn on our right, and Greenstone Valley on our left didn’t leave our sight for most of the day. Reaching the wind meter (for the proposed gondola) proved an intriguing interlude with some cunning and devious discussions being had as to a possible ‘mishap’. David appeared quite willing to take on the title of ‘Eco-Warrior’, as did in fact half the group. Nevertheless, it still stands untouched - let’s hope the same for the Range itself.

The scurry up and down a reasonable slope, late in the day, increased the appreciation for both our camp site and dinner. We had a fantastic spot, perched on a saddle high above the Greenstone Valley. Roy nibbled on his rice crackers, while most boiled their billies. Gary and Heather, demonstrated their extensive outdoor experience - cooling a couple of tinnies (each!) in the tarn before gulping them down with cheeky ‘you can’t have any’ grins.

Morning was a tad drizzly and a lot cooler than the previous day, so not too much time was wasted packing up. We were soon into the stream. Bill and the boys up front went looking for an easier route, while the rest of us plodded on. Eventually catching up, Moir’s trusty guidebook had surfaced and the search was on for a supposedly marked trail. Not having much luck, we then decided to stop for lunch, after which, while relishing in a moment of well-needed solitude, if you get my drift, my gaze was drawn to a marker! We were away - a well blazed trail dropped steeply through the bush and into the Cascade Creek.

There was talk of ‘what ifs’ among the group, as the grounded helicopter was still missing - for better or worse, we didn’t have to worry about that one. For me, leaving the bush always seems to happen so quickly. Within 20 seconds of reaching the main road and crossing it, three tour busses had roared passed - no mistaking Milford Sound was within a stones throw. The Gifford’s party soon rejoined ours and we were on our way. Ralph shared a similar sentiment as we drove off - 'it’s amazing how you can be hanging on for your life and with in 30 minutes you’re in the car and on your way home'. What did he mean exactly? When asked how their few days fared, the party of five who headed up to Giffords Crack responded only with nervous giggles and the repeated word 'interesting'. Ralph was obviously being quite candid.

So that was it, a successful first tramp and enough to draw me back again. Eves-dropping in on a conversation nearing Dunedin, I overheard the question, 'So, if someone asks - what exactly have I been doing this weekend?' - maybe they better sign up for another trip, or at least read the back of the trailer a couple of times.

Luke

 

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